Miscellaneous techniques

Or the bath will sag in wetlands. What to use the foundation for the bath

Or the bath will sag in wetlands.  What to use the foundation for the bath

It happens that a purchased or allocated plot for the construction of a dacha and the entire dacha economy is not particularly suitable for capital construction. It is very difficult to build a foundation for any building, for example, for a house or a bathhouse, for quite simple reasons. The site may have a high level of groundwater, no runoff from the site of rainwater. It can be located in a peat bog or a swamp, which can be periodically flooded and where it is constantly damp.

Choosing a foundation on screw piles

For the construction of a bath in such places, this issue must be addressed comprehensively and at the lowest cost, so that the drainage and drainage of the site does not turn out to be very expensive. And the first thing to do is choose the right foundation.

In order for the foundation to stand for a long time even in a damp place, it can be made not concrete, but screw. For this, apply screw piles, which are screwed to a depth below the freezing depth and they will cost much cheaper than draining the site and building a strip foundation. To do this, it may be necessary to remove all the soil from under the bath. Next, pour a pillow of sand, and already put a monolithic strip foundation on it.

Screw piles under the bath are installed at corners, at the intersection with internal walls, every 1.5-2 meters and under a heavy brick oven with a pipe. In total, about 16 screw piles are needed for a 6x6 bath, which are installed manually during the day. The top level of the piles is set at 0.5 meters from the ground. The outer surface of the piles is galvanized and is not afraid of contact with water and aggressive media. For greater reliability, with a constructive possibility, reinforcement is inserted into the pipe and concrete is poured.

To close the basement, you can install screw piles into a hanging strip foundation that will not rest on the ground or cover it with DSP sheets. All wood - timber, boards that go to the lower crowns and will be under the direct influence of dampness, are treated several times with an antiseptic or working out mixed with bituminous mastic so that the tree is saturated.

We make the right drainage on the site

Second, and no less important than an adequate choice of the type of foundation, is the work of constructing the drainage. Need lower the groundwater level on the entire site or locally around the bath. To do this, ditches are dug towards the slope or around the site so that water accumulates in them. All soil is transported to the site, which increases its level.

All drainage can be brought to one place and a small pond can be dug, from which water can be periodically discharged with a hose. Instead of a reservoir, you can dig two concrete rings into the ground at the lowest point on the site, bring drainage ditches to drainage well and periodically drain water from it.

Depending on the installation conditions and soil, you can choose one of the two available types of drainage.


The problem of elevated groundwater levels and swampiness of the site can only be solved with the help of drainage

Drainage in the form of pipes mounted immediately during construction, or when there are problems with groundwater in the presence of existing buildings. The components of the system are drainage pipes. For their production, plastic or less often ceramics are used. Drains are connected in series with pipes that lead to a sump, in the absence of the possibility of a natural drain.

When installing pipes, geotextiles and crushed stone are used, which act as filtering agents and prevent the drainage system from clogging. Maintenance of such a system does not take much time and is not difficult. This includes cleaning the sump at least once a year, and pressure flushing the pipes every three to four years.

Drainage pipes laid in accordance with the design requirements, as a rule, run along the walls and, in addition, are laid in parallel or in a herringbone pattern over large spaces.

Surface drainage used when there is no possibility of building internal, buried drainage and the groundwater level is very high. This type of drainage is best done at the stage of foundation construction. However, there is also the option to do it later.

In any situation, when a question arises construction of a bathhouse on a damp wetland, one cannot avoid the two indicated ways of solving it. Since, the screw foundation and the drainage system in conjunction represent the most effective, reliable and inexpensive way to carry out independent construction.

It just so happened that a bath is an essential attribute of a beautiful, well-equipped dacha. It's one thing to hastily wash yourself in an uncomfortable and cramped shower stall, and quite another to comfortably take a steam bath in a cozy place, feeling like a real resident of "Ancient Russia". It is not surprising that baths in summer cottages are so popular. Of course, you can order the construction of a bath in some construction company. But what if you yourself were engaged in the design of your dacha and now you don’t want to break the existing harmony with someone else’s interference? It remains only to build a bath yourself. Moreover, it is not so difficult. This article will highlight all the points that can cause difficulty, and you will get a wonderful bath without a foundation.

Why no foundation?

There are three main reasons.

  1. Building a bath with a foundation is much more expensive. If you do without it, the cost of construction can be well cut.
  2. Without a foundation, the building will legally be considered a barn, a change house. You do not have to coordinate the structure of the bath with numerous inspections, obtaining permits. No, the “barn” will also have to be issued, but it is much easier. Conventionally, this bath will be considered a mobile, collapsible building that can be moved somewhere at any time. But the time of her stay on the site is not regulated, so there is no need to worry about it.
  3. Sometimes there is simply no time to build a solid foundation. And then it will be a temporary solution. And then you can transfer the bath to the foundation, if you want.

Building Requirements

To avoid problems with inspections in the future, it is better to immediately ensure that your bath meets the following requirements:

  • weight no more than four tons;
  • area not more than 30 square meters. It is considered not inside the room, but outside, along the outer perimeter;
  • there should be only one floor, the first one. It is impossible to build a second floor;
  • the structure must be collapsible. Conditionally collapsible. Of course, no one will dismantle the bath to check this criterion.

Determine the type of soil

First you need to find out if it is possible to build a bath without a foundation on your site. Is it always possible to do without it? No. A lot depends on the type of soil in your area. Rocky, mountainous terrain is ideal, where the soil is quite hard. Soft ground will inevitably sag, and it will do it unevenly, causing distortions of doors, windows, and even the destruction of walls.

The soil must withstand a pressure of 12-15 kilograms per square centimeter. This is the minimum hardness required. If it is not there, you will have to make a tape or pile foundation, and that is a topic for another article.

clay base

If the soil is dense, not eroded by water, not prone to slipping and sliding, you can use this method.

  1. Level the site on which the construction is planned.
  2. Mark the outline of the future bath, and dig a trench around its perimeter. The depth should be about 30 centimeters, the bottom of the trench should be strictly parallel to the surface of the earth.
  3. Reinforce the trench with boards. They must be quite strong, that is, a rotten tree falling apart from old age will not work here.
  4. Fill in the gaps between the boards with clay. Do not dump all the clay at once, do it gradually, for example, 5-10 centimeters of clay at a time. Tamp it down carefully each time. You can use a special roller or just some kind of log that will need to be knocked on the clay, compacting it.
  5. The clay will dry out in a few days, and now you can build walls on it. It will provide sufficient density to the base.

Sand and gravel base

This still will not be a foundation, but a foundation pit will have to be dug. This option is suitable for less dense soil.

  1. Dig a pit. Its depth should be 90-100 centimeters. Theoretically, you can do with a shovel, but it is better to use a special technique.
  2. Dig drainage trenches. They should go as if down and at an angle from the pit. Their task is to divert groundwater from the pit, reducing moisture. The trenches will need to be filled with special drainage soil.
  3. Fill the pit with rubble. You can use something else, such as a broken brick, but it will be less effective. Crushed is better.
  4. On top of the rubble, you need to lay a waterproofing layer of any material that you like and meets the goals of waterproofing. Roofing material is well suited for these purposes.

Such a base is able to withstand much more weight than clay.

boulder base

As already mentioned, one of the most suitable areas for building a bathhouse without a foundation is mountainous and rocky terrain. In it, boulders and stones of various sizes and shapes can be found in abundance. Therefore, it will be cheaper and easier to make the basis for the bath from them.


Such a base will be very reliable and will withstand even a rather heavy structure. A bathhouse without a foundation, but on a stone foundation, can even be made of logs. Reliability and ability to withstand gravity is quite comparable to a real foundation.

Rubble pillow

Such a base is only suitable for a flat surface. If there is some slope of the soil in the place where you are going to put the bath, you will have to make columns.

  1. Dig a shallow (up to 50 centimeters) hole on the base of the future bath. Its bottom should be flat, parallel to the main surface.
  2. Fill the hole with gravel.
  3. Lay a waterproofing layer on top.

Bath features

Remember, the foundation is needed precisely in order to withstand the heavy weight of the building. No matter how beautiful the foundation you have obtained, it is still not the foundation. And it will not withstand really heavy loads. Therefore, the bath itself, which you will build, should be lighter than its "fundamental" counterparts.

Walls are best made of wood or plastic, heavy logs won't work very well, but if they're light and not too thick, they can be used.

How to raise a bath

What if you already have a bathhouse on the site, but you want to raise it. For example, for the reason that you noticed how the walls rot from below. How to raise a bath without a foundation? It's not as difficult as it might seem. You will need a jack (one is possible, but it will be easier with several), supports and posts on which the bath should eventually be installed. So how is it done?

Bring the jack under one of the corners of the bath, gently lift it up. Not too hard, five centimeters at a time will be enough. Place a solid base. Move to the next corner and do the same with it. So, the foundation is laid under the walls, now you can proceed to the props. Everything is the same: slightly raise the corners, put the supports one by one, remove the jack. If you have several jacks at once (preferably four), everything can be done much more conveniently: you set the jacks at once at all angles, raise them at the same time, and even then put the supports. So you can raise the bath not five centimeters at a time, but a little more. In addition, this way the load on each individual jack will be less, which means there is less risk that something will go wrong.

If the crown of the building looks unreliable and it seems to you that it may break, you do not need to follow the above instructions, because it is dangerous and fraught with injury, not to mention the dangers of the bath structure.

Buying a finished bath

If you are not sure that you can build a bath yourself, you can always purchase a ready-made version. Then the base must be done in the same way as described above. Technology will not change. You just have to focus on the dimensions of the finished bath, do not forget to clarify them properly and several times. In general, even if you want to buy a so-called "mobile" bath on wheels, the base will not interfere with it.

It is always better for a building, even a mobile one, to stand horizontally, without distortions. Especially if you are not going to transport the purchased bathhouse anywhere. The weight of the building will still make it sag. Distortions will cause inconvenience during the operation of the bath, so a solid base will be a good way out. The only thing is that when buying a mobile bath, you can take care of waterproofing a little less. She will still rise above the ground.

So, if you are not afraid of difficulties, have ingenuity and some engineering imagination, it will not be difficult for you to build a bathhouse on your own. suburban area. The main thing to remember is that if something doesn’t work out for you, stop and ask for advice from more experienced friends and acquaintances. Also, qualified advice can often be obtained at some forum dedicated to construction. Of course, it is a very special pleasure to bathe in a bathhouse built with your own hands, so overcoming all the difficulties on the way to this goal is really worth it.

It is a difficult site to build. Swamp land has a lot of water, and a large mass of fine particles. The first layer of soil is peat, it shrinks a little. In peaty and swampy soils, water is nearby. The foundation is being built using several good technologies. Before you start working and designing the bases, you need to do some research, according to which the base frame and bottom will be made. This is the construction of pile and slab foundations.

The most necessary moment in preparing for the construction of foundations in a swamp is finding water from the earth. Underground water is located close to the ground. It is also necessary to take into account the load of the entire building. How strong the mass of the proposed building will be, it is decided what the foundation will be. To do this, calculate the total mass of the building, according to these criteria, choose the types of foundation.

Bath foundation

In the past, the foundations were stones, they were covered with clay, the structure was made of logs. There are many ways to prepare a base that will last a very long time without breaking. The foundation for a bath in a swamp must be: durable, safe, the walls must be waterproof, be ready to accept the weight of the structure.

When making foundations, you need to be careful with the soil, in most cases it all depends on how long the steam room will last. Ground requirements:

  • do not move;
  • do not bulge;
  • compress well, be stable.

It is undesirable to make a bath, where most of the peat and sand are present. If there are no options, you need to make a pillow of coarse sand. They make a hole on the foundation, lay sand on the bottom, pour it with water, ram it.

Well-mixed soil is excellent. The bottom of the building should be half a meter. Before laying the foundations, you need to know how far to lay, how much the soil will freeze. The laying occurs 20 cm below the rest of the data, the distance is filled with sand, gravel. Before laying it is necessary to process the site.

A drawing is made, the territory is leveled, the first layer of soil is removed. The width of the base should be 10 cm more than the width of the wall. There are several types of foundations: tape, columnar, bored, pile.

Foundation construction

The most important condition for making a foundation in a swamp is to do drainage. It is necessary to remove all unnecessary water from this site, after all the measures it is already possible to build a foundation for a building in a swamp. Drainage works bring a lot of patience. For land in a swamp, the pile foundation is combined or reinforced concrete. Piles are the main part of the foundation. People living in the North take a reinforced slab for construction.

A shallow foundation is the most suitable for small wooden houses. After that, a project is selected, and the slab is poured correctly, and then everything will be fine with the building.

Foundation and swamp

For work, the best option would be a pile with a beam and monolithic grillage. The reason is the instability of the soil, the deformation of the soil, which can push the support of the structure out of the ground. Humidity is very important, it can destroy the reinforced concrete structure of the main pillars. A swamp foundation supported by firm ground below the freezing point is an excellent choice.

The construction of the foundation is not quite simple than on simple soil. All work is done by hand, with a minimum of mechanical machines.

House in the swamp

Houses and dachas, warehouses, buildings for industry and other buildings are sometimes erected in the swamp. Periodically, residential buildings are placed on:

  1. pile;
  2. tape;
  3. monolithic foundations.

A monolithic base is the most durable and expensive. It is more economical, but too reliable to use a strip foundation, it requires a very large amount of work. The best foundation for a house in a swamp is a screw pile, screwed lower than the ground layer freezes, the more practical the design becomes. The support goes to the entire area, thereby the building becomes more stable, practical.

Pile foundation - a reinforced pipe filled with a pillow of sand, is considered one of the suitable ones for building a foundation in a swamp, there is a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bfixing, which is good for the overall load of the building. Considered the most expensive option.

Foundation in the swamp

A well-filled base is the beginning of a building; the practicality of a building on wet soil depends on the foundation. When you need to pour a foundation in a swamp, an ordinary foundation will not work, it is subjected to earth drilling, and poor-quality laying due to the fact that there is water nearby. There is a specific instruction for installing the foundation for the construction of a reinforced concrete monolithic slab, a building is being built on it.

To do this, it is necessary to pour and make ramming of crushed stone, at the very beginning of the pit. The top is sprinkled with sand, it strengthens the rubble, does not allow it to diverge. Further, a layer of sand and gravel is compacted with vibro tools. After the layer is covered with a vinyl film, it keeps the concrete slab from capillary moisture. From above there is an armature from iron. Metal fittings are not recommended to be welded, they are fixed with a knitting wire.

It is easier to pour a monolithic slab with ready-made concrete made at the factory. Then you can pour it in one day, it's good for the stove. It is made in such a way as to preserve the building during ground displacements. The base may float, the cause may be the movement of the monolithic slab.

Strip foundation

The strip foundation is the most expensive and durable of all that exists. It is placed almost everywhere where the earth layer is relatively stable. The strip foundation in the swamp is a concrete structure that has the perimeter of the future house. The work is to make a trench and fill it with concrete, you can also install small and large blocks from the foundation.

When building a foundation, you need to know about its reliability, this is due to weather conditions, and much depends on the soil. The soil is looser in winter than in summer. The greater the density of the soil, and the colder the winter, the more the earth will freeze.

The low groundwater level is of great importance. When digging a pit, pay attention to the thickness of the soil, and the depth of the foundation, there will be layers of large and small stones.

We clear the area for construction when you need to fill the foundation in the swamp:

  1. We make a trench of the required shape for the building.
  2. We make a pillow out of sand.
  3. We build the reinforcement of the frame along the dug hole.
  4. We do water care, construct drainage.
  5. Pour the mixture and wait until it hardens.
  6. When everything is dry, it is necessary to make waterproofing. When the foundation is ready, you can start building walls. If you do everything smartly, the house should turn out.

Used in the construction of houses different types foundations. First, it is very necessary to abandon those foundations that cannot be built in a marsh area. Putting a foundation in a swamp should start with a monolithic version. The construction is expensive and large in volume, it is necessary to get a lot of soil. This requires freight transport, the house will be heavier, which should not be allowed in the swamp.

Pile and column foundations are not recommended for construction in a swamp. It will be good only to build a bath, the weight of the building is transferred to the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure.

You should abandon the cellar, there is very high humidity, there will be dampness. In order to begin the installation of the foundation, make a series preparatory work. To begin with, groundwater is diverted, drainage ditches are made around the perimeter. It is necessary to make a small descent to collect water in a certain place.

If there is already a ready-made pit, the bottom is sprinkled with small pebbles, special pipes are placed on it. It is necessary to protect them from blockage, and twist them with geofabric, which will exclude unnecessary dirt. Pipes must be taken to the well, from there the water can be removed by a pump.

We protect the foundation from excess moisture, this is done after the formwork has been placed. We install asbestos-cement sheets and a waterproofing membrane, it will protect against excess moisture. And also there will be no dampness in the house itself, so that mold does not appear, and the fungus does not start. The fungus is very difficult to remove from the living quarters, and dampness is also a bad indicator for a residential building. This will allow your cellar to remain without water, which means that it can store useful necessary things, spins.

In Russia, baths were called differently: firebox, lazna, soap. The healing properties of water, steam, hot stones have been known to Russian people for a long time, so baths in Russia were able to build everywhere. The love for cleanliness and healing bath procedures is still alive in us. Consequently, baths are an integral part in the construction of a country house.

In this article, you will learn how to properly build a Russian bath and what mistakes should not be made during its construction.

If you want to get a house or bath in perfect quality, save time on learning technologies, then order from an experienced company. Specialists are good at building objects of any level of complexity.

1 mistake - poor quality foundation

2 mistake - saw cut for a log house

Now most often you can find a log cabin for a bath made of pine or spruce. In Russia, it was the other way around, people cut houses from conifers, but baths were built from linden or aspen.

Conifers have a large charge of energy, well tone up and stimulate vital processes in the body. Baths, on the other hand, exist in order to relieve stress, and for this, wood species with an energy-negative or neutral charge, such as linden or aspen, are best.

Aspen wood does not prick or wrinkle, plus it is well preserved in water, and when dried, it does not crack or warp. There is very high humidity in the baths, so an aspen log house is very suitable for its construction. Over the years, the bath will not rot, it can only dilapidate and require minor repairs.

3 mistake - incorrectly erected log house

The log cabin of the bath is her body, so it is very important that it be made in accordance with all the rules. Logging trees are best harvested in winter, when sap flow is minimal. Logs from such a forest are strong as armor and cracks and cracks will not appear in them. Therefore, before purchasing timber for construction, ask when it was cut down.

The sauna stove is heated all year round and therefore it is very important to consider fire safety. It is necessary to have a chimney in the place where it passes through the roof. It should be noted that from the chimney to the wooden parts there must be at least 38 centimeters. The brick for the chimney must be of high quality without cracks, chips, lops. It is important that the pipe in the attic must be whitewashed. If cracks form, then this will be clearly visible on a white pipe.

5 mistake - poor-quality furnace fittings

All fittings for the furnace are installed during masonry, it is very important to check for quality before installation. Gate valve, the sheet with which it closes, grate, i.e., all cast iron fittings are checked for sound by hitting them. The sound should be clear, sonorous, which means that the product is of high quality. At the furnace or blower door, we check the functionality of all the locks so that the door opens well and does not jam anything.

6 mistake - illiterate lining of the furnace

The surface of the stove can not be plastered, but it is even necessary to line it with porcelain or clay tiles. The brick very well absorbs the steam that is in the bath and, therefore, the furnace may be destroyed due to temperature differences. By putting the stove in a tile, you can avoid this, plus it will become more energy-intensive and will radiate soft heat.

Tiles are highly artistic (hand-painted) and simple. Glazed porcelain tiles are best suited for the oven, they absorb moisture well and are easy to clean. If you decide to use clay tiles, then you need to make sure that the clay was fired at a temperature above 1000 degrees.

7 mistake - the quality of the fuel for the bath

The fuel for the bath must also be selected. You can not heat the bath with conifers, they give a lot of soot, which settles on the walls of the furnace and becomes a fire hazard. For a good hot bath, a middle-aged oak is suitable (a young one will not give the desired temperature), a birch with a humidity of 25% or less, and, of course, an alder, it invigorates and heals from a cold. Firewood is harvested in hot weather, when it is dry, then you can see where the rot is present. You can also prepare in the cold, before tapping on the trunk. If the sound is deaf, then the trunk is rotten, and a sonorous and long sound will tell you which tree you need. Willow cannot be used - it is bitter. Ash wood burns out too quickly.

8 mistake - the contents of the heater

The contents of the heater, the stones on which we put water to get steam, are very important. The choice of stones is now huge, but there are subtleties that you need to know. The stone, before using it in the bath, must be checked. Before bath exercise, melt the stove, heat the stones and check them. After 500-600 degrees, soot begins to burn out of the stone. Pouring hot water of 70 degrees on the stones (in no case cold - the stone will crack), steam will begin to be released. Here the main thing is to determine the steam is pure or with an admixture, for this you can hang a white sheet in front of the stones and after the steam dissipates, see if it is pure or not. If you find dirt, soot on the sheets, then it is better to remove such a stone, it contains a lot of volatile fractions harmful to the body. But if you decide to leave such stones, then it is better to test them several times, perhaps after 3-4 times the impurities will come out of the stones. After that, we select the bursting and crumbling stones and leave the most durable ones.

Advice for those who like to breathe aromatic oils. Do not pour oil on the stones - there is no effect. It is best to spray the walls of the steam room or add to the water with a broom, only in this case you will get the benefit and aroma of the oils.

9 error - incorrect ventilation system

It is necessary to ventilate the bath not like living quarters. Everything that we get rid of in the bath: dirt, sweat, various toxins falls to the floor, so the ventilation in the bath should be organized below. But the influx of fresh air should be from above, preferably already heated. If the ventilation is organized incorrectly, then in the steam room you begin to inhale what comes out of you, and you begin to feel discomfort. In the bath you need to enjoy, and not bring yourself to a semi-conscious state, therefore, proper ventilation- it is very important.

10 mistake - wrong door location

The door from the steam room must necessarily open outwards. If you overheated or because of a poor-quality stove or poor ventilation received a dose of carbon monoxide, then you can go outside with the correct location of the door with a simple movement of your hand, shoving the door.

So, if you want to improve your health, get maximum pleasure, relax and unwind in the bath, do not make the mistakes mentioned above, and your bath will always charge you with joy, vivacity and health. Good luck.

You should not convince anyone that the foundation is the foundation of the foundations of the future building, including the baths. What it will be - this will be your building, whether it will be able to stand for a guaranteed period or will quickly become unusable. Before building anything, you should understand the types of existing foundations, for example, whether a pile foundation for a bath is suitable for you or is it better to use a strip one.

How to choose the right foundation

Any type of construction cannot do without a project. You have difficulties in this matter and do not want to spend money on a finished document, then try to calculate the foundation for the bath yourself.

Which type is better

The choice depends on two factors - soil and building materials.

We determine the characteristics of the soil

Dig a hole, the depth of which depends on the level of groundwater. Traditionally, it can be from half a meter to one and a half meters.

Look at the composition of the soil.

  1. The soil is considered weak when:
  • peat bog;
  • fine or loess sand;
  • wet marshy land.

In this case, a slab or pile-screw foundation is used. It is possible as an option to use a reinforced sand cushion tape type of base, but not block, but monolithic.

  1. Average soil density:
  • coarse sand;
  • various clay;
  • fine gravel;
  • loam.

Apply columnar foundations and tape ().

  1. Good soil density if it mostly consists of:
  • compacted fine sand;
  • quartz;
  • rocky breed.

On such soils, you can build any type of foundation for a bath.

Decide on building materials:

  • , foam blocks, stone and other heavy materials, a slab or tape version of the base should be used;
  • - columnar;
  • for soft soils - a screw version of the base.

Below we will understand the main types of bases that differ from each other. design features. They are used not only when installing a bath, but also for the construction of buildings of various categories.

Strip foundation

The name is connected with its external similarity to a tape. It takes the load from the entire building. A distinctive feature of this type of foundation is that it does not require special soil preparation, the design is quite simple and a non-professional builder can handle it. It should also be said that such a foundation requires a large amount of building materials and labor costs.

Apply strip foundations under the bath for low buildings, a maximum of two floors, with brick walls and with reinforced concrete floors. For wooden and frame structures, it can be considered an ideal option with a 100% guarantee of strength.

Kinds:

  1. Monolithic, manufactured at the construction site using a continuous work cycle;
  2. Prefabricated from reinforced concrete blocks and structures.

Basic building materials:

  • cement;
  • sand;
  • gravel;
  • buta;
  • crushed stone;
  • broken brick.

Now foundations from standard reinforced concrete blocks made by construction organizations are in great demand. But, for their installation in a prepared trench, special construction equipment is required, and this creates additional difficulties when creating a foundation with your own hands.

You can also use solid "red" brick as the main load-bearing material when it is not possible to use other materials.

In the photo - formwork installation

Below are the building instructions:

  1. Prepare the construction site. Remove debris, remove the top grass layer. Preparing the foundation for a bath is the first stage of its construction.

Tip: do not throw away stones and broken bricks, they will come in handy as a filler for the concrete mix.

  1. Mark the site according to the plan. Take a tape measure, a square and a rope and drive in the pegs in sequence along the outer contour. Follow. To keep the corners straight.
  1. Dig a trench under the foundation. You will need a shovel and patience in hard work. The minimum trench depth is 500 mm and it depends on the climatic conditions of the area.

Tip: make the trench wider than the intended foundation by 100-150 mm on each side so that the formwork can be easily installed.

  1. Prepare the base. Fill the bottom of the trench with a layer of coarse sand, 100 mm high, and the same layer of crushed stone or gravel. Tamp each and pour water.
  1. Formwork installation. Prepare edged boards or chipboard with a thickness of 30-35 mm and 20-22 mm, respectively. Assemble the formwork in the form of panels and install it in the trench so that its upper part is 100-150 mm higher than the foundation. Boards and boards should be securely fastened together.
  1. Armature frame. It can be omitted if the building is made of lightweight building materials. Reinforcement frame Ø12-16 mm is required for brick walls. Tie the rods together with steel wire, do not use welding. Leave a distance of 50 mm to the bottom of the trench by placing bricks under the frame.

Tip: to ventilate the foundation around the perimeter in 2-3 m increments, install ceramic, plastic or primed metal pipes Ø60-80 mm.

  1. Pouring concrete. The higher the brand of cement, the better the quality of the foundation will be. Alternatively, order a ready-made concrete solution.

Column Foundation

Another type of foundation, which is often used for wooden and light buildings no higher than two floors. It consists of a series of pillars buried in the ground, interconnected by wooden or reinforced concrete beams.

Its price is much cheaper than tape and does not require large expenditures of building materials. It is recommended to use a columnar foundation on soils with little surface deformation.

The main condition is that the lower part of the column must be below the freezing level of the soil. You should also take into account the displacement of the upper layers relative to each other, leaving a gap between the upper beams and the soil, which is calculated based on the quality of the latter.

Manufacturing:

  1. Remove sod from construction site and straighten it out. Carry out its markup according to the plan.
  2. Dig or drill holes for poles Ø 240 mm and a depth of 1.5 m around the perimeter in 2-3 m increments. They must be in the corners, at the junctions of the walls and under the stove.

Pole material:

  • concrete;
  • wood (larch, oak or pine);
  • brick;
  • asbestos-cement pipes into which concrete is poured.

Treat wooden poles with tar or hot bitumen. They can be supported by stone, brick, compacted rubble or concrete. The post should protrude from the ground by 300-350 mm and it should be wrapped with roofing felt over hot tar.

  1. Align the posts with respect to the horizontal plane.
  2. Put waterproofing from 2-3 layers of roofing material on the ends of the pillars.

slab foundation

The cost of a foundation for a bath of this type is the most expensive, it resembles an ordinary reinforced concrete slab with a thickness of about 500 mm and is poured over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building. This made it possible to install it on floating soils, preventing deformation of the base and the building itself. The rigidity of the structure protects the structure from any movement of the soil, as it moves simultaneously with it, remaining intact.

The overall dimensions of the slab exceed the building by 1-1.5 m along the perimeter. Before installing this type of foundation, a layer of concrete of lower grades is leveled or a sand backfill is made.

To insulate the base and reduce the cost of building materials, you can use polypropylene thermal insulation over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slab. These supporting structures are also called "shallow foundations". Most often, such foundations are used on heaving soils with a building height of no more than 3 floors.

screw foundation

It is used on weak soils, which are carefully examined beforehand. This is necessary to calculate the depth of piles.

The following types of installation are used:

  • indentation,
  • screwing;
  • vibration immersion;
  • blockage.

The location of the piles depends on the type and magnitude of the load that can be applied to the foundation:

  • under the walls - in rows;
  • under the columns - bushes;
  • for individual supports - one at a time.

When calculating, you should add a fifth to the load that the structure exerts on the foundation. Know in advance the allowable load on the pile. Take into account the climatic features of the region.

Conclusion

This material provides an overview that will help you select, calculate and build the desired type of foundation on the site, including the foundation for a bathhouse in a swampy area. It is necessary to carefully approach this issue, since such buildings are installed for more than a dozen years. In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.